27. Bangkok - Thailand

Although it is a 2.5 hour drive from the port up to Bangkok, we decided to get up early and make the trip anyway. The route itself is pretty straightforward, a four lane highway in each direction, but it resembled the M25 on a good day as we drew closer to the city. All the land between the port and the city seems to have been developed in one way or another and we passed everything from oil refineries to fish farms, fruit stalls to elaborate temples. Closer to the city centre the many modern apartment blocks and office buildings sit uncomfortably alongside corrugated iron built shanty towns and slums. (But having said that, many of the ramshackle dwellings did have a satellite dish attached to the roof.)

Once delivered safely into the city centre we set off to do a bit of exploration by ourselves. We had been advised that it would be best to avoid the area around the Grand Palace as the book of condolence for the late King had just been opened to the general public the evenings before and over 100,000 people were waiting to sign. We wouldn't have been able to move, yet alone get a taxi.

It is almost as if much of the city is built on three levels. At the bottom is street level, in the middle, the walking level and at the top, the highways and Skytrain, so we made our way along the walkways to the Erewan shrine, the shrine of the four faced Buddha. (I will have to check but I think this is the shrine that was the subject of a terrorist bomb attack a couple of years ago.) There were many people paying their respects, the shrine was covered in bright yellow garlands, girls in traditional dress were performing dances and the scent of incense hung heavily in the air. 

We continued our walk at street level, passing many vendors selling deliciously smelling street food and avoided the temptation to buy as our eyes did not recognise the fare and our stomachs would probably reject it anyway. One narrow street that we turned up was just a seething mass of people, cars, bikes, stalls, scents and colours...almost impossible to walk along....but a great experience!

The thought of the street food turned our attention towards lunch, so we went into one of the large and air conditioned malls and found the food court. I opted for some Thai noodles with spicy chicken and egg, whilst Claire found a mango salad with lots of spicy prawns and garlic. This was washed down with some iced tea and some lemongrass lemonade. All very delicious indeed!

Several of the shopping malls had their own books of condolence...the one that we went into for lunch had a queue going out of the entrance, along the walkway and around the corner...at least 400 metres for those joining at the end. Also, during this period of public mourning, the locals were being asked to wear dark clothes...and this request was being followed almost without exception. Black trousers, shirts, and skirts were everywhere to be seen on the streets and the local stores were selling very little else, at least in the shop windows. As we saw in Phuket and Koh Samui, the outward signs of how much the late King was revered were everywhere.

We finished our brief Bangkok experience with very refreshing fruity icecreams. Well, we did need to be fortified for the long drive back to the port. Thankfully the forecast thunderstorms held off for the entire day and the traffic coming back was not quite as heavy as on the way up, so we were back on the ship with 45 minutes to spare. We watched the returning coaches deposit the other day trippers at the  gangway from the comfort of our balcony, glad to avoid the wrath of Third Officer Susan as she hounded the last stragglers from the cruise terminal gift shop.

26. Koh Samui

Sunday's port of call was Koh Samui, in Thailand. We arrived early in the morning but upon opening th curtains, the scene did not look good. Rain, mist and murk. So, we had breakfast and hoped things might clear up, but the rain seemed incessant. We waited and waited and eventually at around 11.30 it finally seemed dry enough to catch one of the tenders to get ashore, but as the ship was scheduled for an early departure, we did not have much time left to explore.

So, rather than negotiating a price for a taxi ride, we just had a wander around the town. As in Phuket, there were many signs of public mourning for the late King (including one or two traders who were selling memorial tee-shirts). Tasteful-not. Elsewhere the main street contained many shops for tourists, the inevitable massage salons, bars, coffee shops, and a local market, as well as fruit stalls and street food vendors. There is also a very colourful Buddhist Temple.

After a few hours we headed back towards the tender jetty but stopping to watch the local fishing fleet unloading its latest catch. It must have been a very successful nights work as the many varieties and sizes of fish were being packed in ice and sold on the harbour side before being transported away to markets near and far.

Thankfully our timings for the day were just about right as once we were back on board and the last tender was being hoisted back on board, the mist and murk and rain returned. Still, at least it was warm rain!

25. Singapore

The last day at sea for the 1,000 or so passengers who were disembarking at Singapore was a mixed blessing; hopeless for those wishing to top up their tans but great for everyone who had to spend time packing their suitcases. It rained...rain of monsoonal proportions complete with spectacular lighting and rolling thunder. However, by the time we were docked in the morning, the skies had cleared and the heat was rising, although the humidity remained.

Unfortunately, due to the time it took to get off the ship, get through customs and immigration, and get some local money we decided that it would be best to curtail our original plans for the day. So, out went a visit to the Botanical Gardens and off we headed to the Gardens on the Bay, a lovely green area of lakes and parkland but including spectacular man made trees. We ascended the skywalk and took in wonderful views of the city skyscrapers, the Flyer and Marina Bay Sands. This was particularly poignant for us as last year when we tried to get to the skywalk we were caught in a torrential downpour and had to give it a miss.

Getting back on to the MTR we headed more into the centre of city with the aim of getting to Raffles Hotel. Somehow we miscalculated and got off at the wrong stop, so had to get our bearings from street level and go back down into the station. Second time lucky, we got to the Hotel but both the Long Room bar and Billiards Room were closed so we could only have a look around and browse the gift shop.

By now the heat was getting to us so the air conditioned sanctuary of the nearby mall beckoned. We had a wander around and then joined the throngs in the food court....although deciding not to have anything too exotic for lunch. The hours had flown by and after finding a couple of essential supplies (like chocolate), it was time to get the MTR back to the ship as we all had to be aboard by 4.30pm. We met the deadline by half an hour. Third Officer Susan was more than happy. 

As we climbed the gangway, the daily thunder clouds were gathering but luckily we were all inside doing the mandatory safety drill when the skies opened. Unfortunately there was another medical evacuation before we left and sailaway was delayed until 8pm, but that gave us a chance to see the skyline lit up with many vibrant colours.

I do like Singapore. I like the courtesy and friendliness of the cosmopolitan population, the cleanliness, the ease of getting around and, of course, it's very safe. It's a young city too, and while busy, it never appears frantic. It's just a shame that it's so incredibly hot, sticky and steamy!

24. Phuket, Thailand...plus the sweet taste of victory.

Wednesday, and our port of call was Phuket in Thailand. After what seemed like a lot of indecision by Princess as to whether or not we would be anchored off Patong beach or docked in the Deep Water Port, we ended up with the worst of both worlds and had to use the tenders to get ashore at Deep Water. (A place in the middle of nowhere.)

As we had been to Phuket a year or so ago, we opted to take a hiking tour into one of the National Parks and one of the last remaining true tropical rainforest areas left in Thailand. Along the way two things were very apparent. Firstly, that Phuket is a much richer part of the country than Cochin is in India. Yes, there are lots of stalls and markets and cafes and workshops along the route, but there is very little rubbish and litter. Also, there are some very nice houses and even some small housing estates that would not look out of place in leafy English suburbia. 

Secondly, that there are signs of mourning for the recently deceased King everywhere. All flags were being flown at half mast, there were black ribbons adorning buildings and many locals were also wearing a small black ribbon on their arms as a sign of respect. (I had to look twice because the one our tour guide was wearing looked like a black spider crawling up his arm).

The excursion had been billed as "strenuous and off the beaten path". Well, it was more like down the lane and along the track that leads from off the beaten path. After an hour on the road passing rubber plantations and vast fields of pineapples, we reached our destination and then splitting into two small groups, we set off on the trail accompanied by two local guides. Now, I am not against adventure, but this hike soon turned out to be foolhardy at best, and downright reckless at worst. The trail followed the course of a series of waterfalls which meant that we had to scramble over smooth, slippery rocks, thick mud, streams, and rotting foliage and across stepping stones and fallen trees with very little to hold on to by way of balance, all whilst one of the guides carved a path through the jungle with his machete. Yes, we really felt like explorers and the trees, ferns, vines, bamboo, and all the other exotic plants were fascinating, but how the group made it back with no broken bones and nothing more than soaked shoes and muddied trousers I will never know. For the two of us, reasonably agile 50 somethings, it was difficult enough, but for the more sprightly 70 somethings, it was extremely dangerous. Bear Grills would have been proud of us. 

Unfortunately, there was no real wildlife to speak of other than the inevitable ants and termites, some rather fascinatingly disgusting worms, butterflies the size of small birds and spiders the size of dinner plates. Well, perhaps side plates then..... but definitely big.

The slow going negotiating the trail meant that for the second time in two ports we were late back for departure time. This also meant that for the second time we incurred the wrath of Third Officer Susan, the ship's security officer who rules shoreside operations with a rod of iron. But at least it wasn't our fault and the ship waited for us.

So now we are heading down the Straits of Malacca towards Singapore where we shall dock tomorrow. We had a tremendous thunderstorm last night and as I write, the skies are becoming ominously black....but that is just part of the daily process in this part of the world. We will remember to take our umbrellas ashore in the morning!

As for the sweet taste of victory...well, we finally won a round of trivia! This was a specialist round based on nautical knowledge and Claire and I as a team of two (or three if you include Lady Luck), came first, winning a bottle of sparkling wine for our efforts. Much more useful than a pen or a lanyard!

23. Updates again

Okay, this will be the last mention about Indian visas....for the time being. The visa requirements that applied to all passengers obviously also applied to all staff. However, the immigration officials were so intransigent in some cases that even some Indian crew were not permitted to go ashore in their own country!

We have also been told that Emerald Princess made the local Indian news...it was the first cruise ship into Cochin this season (it's not hard to understand why others have avoided the port!). The news article also included a picture of a cruise ship...except that it was not of the Emerald! So, they go to extraordinary lengths to vet the identity of all passengers, but when it comes to the  identity of the ship itself, they get it wrong. You couldn't make it up.

Elsewhere, we have the laundrygate scandal. Someone has been attaching a thin ribbon to the dollar coins that are needed for the washing machines so that they can pull them out and reuse them. This has broken most of the washing machines in all the laundromats. Unbelievable!

There is another story circulating (allegedly with photographic evidence) about a pile of clothes left outside a stateroom door with a note attached saying "we are supposed to be on honeymoon and you are spending way too much time in the bar". Ominous!

We have had a couple more wildlife sightings. Apart from the occasional seabird, we also spotted one turtle and three more dolphins. They were very small so we are not sure if they were juveniles or just a small species which happen to inhabit these particular waters.

As I write we are passing one of the Nicobar Islands, just 7 miles away although a little too hazy to see it. Tomorrow, we arrive in Phuket and the word is that the taxi drivers are operating a cartel by only going to accept hires for island tours (as opposed to a fare for the short ride to Phuket Town), and banning any cruise ship shuttle busses. We are also wondering what effect the recent death of the King is going to have on the tourist trade whilst we are in port. So, watch this space....no doubt there will be a few stories to tell.

22. Cochin - India

Cochin is a large seaport on the west coast of India in the province of Kerala.

Upon opening the curtains on our sail in we were met with a very unusual sight as there were clouds in the sky, lots of mist and murk about and raindrops on the window. However, by the time we had completed our docking and had some breakfast, the mist was lifting and the sun was beginning to come out. As usual, the ship's staff then announced that we had permission to go ashore as the requisite security cordon had been put in place around the ship, such cordon included a 200,000 tonne aircraft carrier right behind us belonging to the Indian navy (but pre owened by a V. Putin Esq. of Moscow, Russia and definitely needing a little attention.)

We had chosen to take an excursion along the coast to an area around the town of Alleppy and which contains a myriad of lakes, canals and other backwaters. Embarking a small motor launch we wended our way around the islands and into inlets, getting an appreciation of the lifestyle of the people who had made the area their home. As in countries all over the world the younger lads were having a kickabout, the men were toiling with heavier work and fishing, whilst the women and girls were attending to the washing up, laundry and cooking...all being done on the banks of the backwaters. No such things as washing machines or dishwashers here. 

Our group stopped at one of the resort islands and we were served a delicious curry lunch (nothing too spicy though), and some of the local beer to wash it all down. Despite many fears about picking up a case of the dreaded Delhi belly, we all appear to have come through unscathed....well, at the time of writing anyway.

The area around Alleppy is fertile and is a big rice growing region. Fishing is also important and tourism is a rapidly growing industry. Indeed, many of the boats on the backwaters are houseboats and can be rented out by the hour or by the week, like a floating hotel room, and with captain and cook included in the price. We exchanged enthusiastic waves with many Indian families and couples who appear to have taken one of these boats out for the day just for a bit of weekend relaxation away from the town and a nice meal.

I know that we were only in India for a day and it may be a little unfair to judge the country on the basis of one small visit, but the guides did say that our experience is pretty much a microcosm of the entire country. India is more or less what you would expect....as our outward drive and return back to the ship demonstrated.

The roads were choked with traffic, people and just about every kind of domestic animal that you can think of. Horns honked, people shouted, tuk-tuk's weaved in and out and chaos reigned, but somehow everything and everyone got through unscathed. The sides of the roads are strewn with rubbish for mile after mile. They are also lined with colourful fruit stalls, little houses, shacks, stores, ramshackle workshops of every trade but then which are then suddenly interrupted by a state of the art car showroom or beauty salon. It struck me as rather odd. But generally, people seem to eke out a living although there are definitely some slums and shantytowns. Adding to the exotic mix are the groups of men sitting around putting the world to rights, the girls and women in their saris of bright coloured silk and the schoolchildren in their smart uniforms.

Our drive took us back past the famous Chinese fishing nets, the church where the explorer Vasco de Gama was buried, and Cochin Fort, an area of town with many colonial influences. Unfortunately there was no time to stop and have a good look as we were running late and had already surpassed our embarkation time by 20 minutes. Thankfully the ship waited for us.

By the time we cast off our lines, the sun was already down and the heat of the day was beginning to dissipate. Somehow, many Indian families had made their way down to the quayside (thus evading the might of the aircraft carrier) to wave the ship goodbye....and it was a lovely friendly end to a day of cultural differences and education.

As I write we are about to round the southern tip of the coast of Sri Lanka, just 10 miles away en route to our next port of call, Phuket in Thailand.

21. A few more updates

The India Visa Question rumbles on and inevitably crops up at every dinner time conversation. But anyway, the Indian Immigration officials have been on board since Dubai and those wishing to go ashore in India are being "processed". I'm pleased to report that all our papers were in order and we have our landing card in our possession ready for going ashore in Cochin. Princess, for their part, have issued a letter from their legal department trying to ally passengers concerns and complaints, but in my humble opinion it is just waffle and a statement of facts that we already knew.

The first stage of the trivia league ended in Dubai and our team ended a creditable 10th place out of the 50 teams involved. No prizes, but it's always a fun social event.

We had the required captains cocktail party last evening, an event not to be missed if only for the free drinks....which we are convinced are short measures anyway. 

During our stop in Dubai, two gentlemen passengers went out and bought the full Arab Sheikh gear...long white robes, sandals, red and white head covering....the lot. Given that they both have dark beards, they look the real deal and caused much amusement amongst crew and guests alike when they wore their outfits at the last formal night!

Wildlife sightings are unfortunately few and far between although we often see large shoals of flying fish skimming across the water. We did watch one gannet like bird, obvious miles from the nearest land, hunting the flying fish, swooping and diving into the sea in an attempt to catch some lunch.

More to follow once we have had our day ashore on Saturday.

PS..as you can see from the picture, our travelling companions Gilbert and Mouse have been tucking in.

20. International Maritime Rescue - Part two

I am sure that this is not what the new captain wanted, but on his first morning at sea (Wednesday), he had to co-ordinate another international rescue. 

Instead of all the action happening at two in the morning, the captain announced just before lunchtime that we were slowing down and that a helicopter had been dispatched from the nearest coast guard point in order to evacuate an ill passenger from the boat. Thus, all outdoor decks had to be cleared, all sun beds stacked and everything loose that could be tied down was to be tied down. Passengers were to stay inside, nobody was allowed onto balconies or the open decks and there was to be no photography.

Naturally, everyone made their way to the best inside vantage points, armed with cameras, iPhones, laptops and anything else that would take a picture, and before too long, a helicopter from the Omani Air Force was in sight. It did a couple of passes over the ship, checking out the clearest hovering space whilst at the same time, the captain backed down on the photography, advising that there was to be only no flash photography, and also admonishing (in very clear terms), those passengers who were happily watching proceedings from their balconies. 

Once everyone was happy, the helicopter lowered itself down to within inches of the railings and other parts of the superstructure whilst the ship was still moving slowly forwards, and bringing gasps from the watching throngs each time the ship or aircraft lurched one way or the other. The casualty, along with one of the ship's paramedics were then winched on board and once the door was safely closed, it sped off towards the nearest hospital in Oman. There were big rounds of applause and then life slowly began to return to normal. 

One can only admire the coordination of all parties involved, not forget the skills of the helicopter crew and we should all be reminded that this was not an exercise or an air display, but a real operation saving a persons life.

By the time this blog post is read, the entire rescue will undoubtedly be posted on Facebook somewhere, and I've no doubt on YouTube as well!

19. Dubai - Part two

One of our main things "to do" in Dubai was to go to the top of the Burj Khalifa, the world's highest building. So, before leaving home, we had prebooked tickets - not just ordinary tickets, but tickets to the highest observation deck on floor 148, rather that to the decks on floors 124 and 125, which are "only" at 1,300 feet, 400 feet below our lofty destination. 

We arrived at Dubai Mall, where the tower is situated in good time to pick up our tickets and despite being a little early, were advised that we could make our ascent with the next group. So, skipping the lines of the mere tourists, we were invited into the VIP suite where our group of 25 were served with Arabic coffee, baklava, pastries and dates. Once through security gate (men to the left, women to the right), we were escorted to the elevator and were whisked upwards at 18kmh, reaching the 148th floor in just over a minute. It hardly felt like we were moving. As we stepped out into the observation lounge, fresh and cool minty drinks were served, along with an assortment of chocolates and macaroons. 

Of course most of the group guzzled quickly, eager to get their first glimpse of Dubai from such a tremendous height. Thankfully, the haze was not too great and we could just make out the airport to the north east, the skyscrapers of Abu Dhabi to the north and the Burj Al Arab and Marina skyscrapers to the south. To the west was "the world", yet another artificial archipelago being developed for residential purposes, whilst to the east was just desert. The views were fabulous, although I doubt that vertigo sufferers would agree with me. Not only could we view the surroundings from behind the large glass panels, but we could also step outside onto an open air viewing platform (yes, you guessed it, the highest outdoor viewing platform in the world). It was amazing to think that we were at 1,700 feet, some 700 feet higher than flying circuits around Jersey airport in delta tango.

After taking our pictures we descended to level 125 where the second class visitors were enjoying the panoramas. But I have to say that I thought the extra height from level 148 was quite noticeable. More pictures were taken and then our VIP status allowed us preferential service for our return down to ground level.

We then had a little more time to explore a bit of the Mall itself. It boasts an aquarium, complete with dozens of sharks and rays and with a vast viewing wall, everyone can have a grandstand seat of all the underwater action. It has an A380 flight simulator, it has an ice rink, it has numerous mini-souks and atriums and it has a branch of every shop that you can think of. (Yes, everything from Tiffany's to Waitrose, Victoria's Secret to WH Smith....some 1,200 shops in all).

We were anxious not to get caught up in the traffic of the previous evening and made sure we allowed good time to get back to the ship before it was due to sail at 4.30pm. As it happened, departure was delayed for nearly 90 minutes because of two missing passengers. The captain waited for them, so they were very luck indeed. Perhaps it was because we have a new captain for the Dubai to Perth leg and he was feeling kind. 

18. Dubai - Part one

We are now out at sea again after a two day stopover in Dubai, UAE, and so I have time to write my little reports.

On Monday, as we approached the port early in the morning, the cityscape loomed out of the haze. One of the first things we sailed past was the old Queen Elizabeth 2, abandoned at her berth. (I won't say she was "rusting", as it is incredibly hot and dry here and judging by the amount of dust covering everything, it hasn't rained for months, if not years). Our plan for the day was to make use of the hop on hop off bus and to get a flavour of what the Emirate had to offer.

Now, Dubai can boost many world superlatives. It has the highest building, the largest man made island, the biggest aquarium, the biggest indoor ski slope and one of the world's best hotels, just to mention a few. It is also the world's biggest building site.

Initially, the bus took us through the central business district where the wide roads (six lanes in each direction) carved their way through the rows of glass fronted skyscrapers. The tallest building, the 2,700 ft Burj Khalifa dominates the skyline and provides a useful reference point for wherever you happen to be in the Emirate, yet alone the city. We then headed towards the coast, passing building site after building site before heading south towards the Burj Al Arab, the iconic sail shaped (and very expensive), hotel. All along the 10 miles or so of coastal road were healthcare clinics, dental surgeries, meditation centres, spas, doctors surgeries, plastic surgeons, massage therapists, hairdressers, beauty salons; the list is endless. One surgery even boasted that "brain surgery has never been safer". Worryingly reassuring I thought. Behind all the clinics were low rise residential apartments and the inevitable mosques...around 500 of them in all.

Once past the Burj Al Arab comes another of Dubai's iconic attractions, the Palm Jameirah. This series of man made islands shaped like a palm tree is primarily residential, (imagine "I live at number 35, frond 6, if you will). However the islands also house the huge Atlantis Hotel resort so that there is a facility for visitors to enjoy the miles of sandy beaches and watersport facilities.

A little further south is the Marina area - almost a city within a city as more skyscrapers tower into the haze. The luxurious waterfront apartments and super yachts moored up are testament to the kind of clientele that the Marina attracts. Here, a second artificial palm island is under construction, even larger than the first. The man made sand fronds have all been sprayed into position and construction of the buildings is due to start very soon.

At this point the bus turned around and headed back towards the city centre. The highway ran alongside the recently completed overland and futuristic looking metro rail line. Stations are air conditioned, as, incidentally, is every bus stop shelter....little oases of relief from the heat. Every lane of the road was chock a block with traffic. Having said that, the traffic moved relatively freely although I would add that apart from one Renault and one Ford, every other car that we saw during our stay was Japanese or high end, a Range Rover for example. No car looked more than a couple of years old and there was certainly nothing that remotely resembled a little runabout.

Once back on the city centre we hopped off the bus and entered the Dubai Mall. (Another global superlative, the biggest mall in the world depending upon which criteria you take). We cooled down with a drink and had lunch while watching a few skaters practicing their moves on the indoor, Olympic sized, ice skating rink.

Batteries recharged, we hopped back onto the bus for a different route and one that was to take us around some of the older parts of the city. Older is really a bit is a misnomer as nearly everything has been built within the last few decades, but we passed an old Arabic fort and wended our way through the gold and spice souks. We passed the fish market (which stank to high heaven), and drove alongside the famed Dubai Creek; a short waterway linking the older part of town to the open sea. The creek was packed with traditional Arab dhows, some offering cruises and many packed to the gunnels with all kinds of goods, from fruit to consumer electronics destined for who knows where.

Eventually we returned to our starting point at the Mall. By this time the sun was beginning to sink in the sky and so that meant it was time to find a good viewpoint to watch the evening fountain show.

The front side of the Mall contains a huge lake upon which you can take boat rides by day, but then during the evening an extravagant water display takes place. (Another superlative - these are the biggest fountains in the world and can shoot jets of water 50 stories high.) So we waited, and waited, and eventually the show started...like a firework display with water instead of pyrotechnics, and with lights and music. Then after 5 minutes it was all over. Spectacular, yes....worth the long wait...just about.

Time to head back to the ship. Evening rush hour was in full swing and we eventually got back on board at 7.45pm in time for a well deserved dinner after our tiring day.

One thing that struck me about Dubai was "where is everyone?", given the amount of residential housing and apartment blocks. The malls are relatively quiet and the majority of shoppers appeared to be tourists. The pavements were deserted, likewise the al fresco cafes and restaurants. Then the answer started to become clear. Half the population seem to be out on the roads, driving their cars, whilst the other half are working in construction gangs. Or just maybe they were all taking advantage of having some safe brain surgery.

Dubai certainly has a number of attractions and places that I would like to have more time to explore another day, but I definitely not like to live here. 

17. Heading to the Straits of Hormuz

Today (Sunday) is the last sea day of six - the longest stretch of sea days that we have on this trip - as we head northwards towards the Straits of Hormuz and then call in to Dubai tomorrow. Some 35% of the world's oil passes through the Straits, so they are strategically important and we expect to see a lot more shipping traffic as the day wears on and pass through the narrowest stretch later tonight.

The days at sea have flown by and we have spent our time listening to lectures on subjects as diverse as the life of Donald Trump to the History of timekeeping, playing trivia, watch the shows (very hit and miss), swimming, walking, and just chatting. And yes, I admit it, eating.

The biggest topic of shipboard conversation at the moment seems to be the great India Visa Question, as we are due to visit that country in a week or so. It was already known by most that this visa was expensive and an administrative nightmare to obtain. It was also one of the conditions of booking this trip that "those not in possession of an Indian visa will be denied boarding in Southampton", and that it was required whether or not you intended to disembark at the port. However some passengers appear to have been allowed to board without said visa and there is much conjecture about what is going to happen to them. Some sources have said that they are going to be fined US$600 by the Indian Authorities, and others have said that they will be granted a visa for US$25 upon arrival. So, it all seems a bit of a mess and if the latter case is true, it is rather unfair on the majority who abided by the T&C's and went to the trouble and expense of doing what was required. Furthermore, "strongly worded letters" are being sent to Princess about the situation, although what about, I'm not sure!

Anyway, perhaps the situation will become clearer over the next few days and I will pass on any news.

For anyone who is still wondering about the little stowaway that I mentioned in my last post, it is a small bird, resembling a swallow, which obviously decided that hitching a lift on a cruise liner was a little less effort than flying. Although maybe hard to see, it is right in the centre of the shot on the white railing.

16. A few updates

Time, I think, for a few updates and for answering all those pressing questions you have been wanting to ask.

What is the weather like?

So far it has been hot and humid (obviously), with temperatures around 33C, although today it feels more pleasant as the humidity has dropped. This is probably because we are now out of the Red Sea and are out in the Gulf of Aden. The sea has been pretty flat all the way and no problems with seasickness.

How is the trivia going?

We still haven't won anything. The morning sessions are "stand alone", whereas the afternoon sessions are now running on a league format. We were 5th out of 50 teams at one point but I feel we have slipped down the ladder a bit recently. We team up with John and Jutte (early 80's), he is a real gentleman and a sweetie, while she is from Denmark, very well travelled, and an interesting and elegant lady. We also have Eric and Barb, from Brisbane (late 60's). Eric is a typical Aussie who's language has become more fruity as the trip has worn on, while Barb is originally from Birmingham, but emigrated years ago. However, she speaks Australian with a Brummie accent, which sounds rather odd!

What about the casino?

We made our first visit to the roulette table last night and came away with US$31 in winnings, so we're happy! It is more than enough to fund this evening's pre dinner cocktails.

What are the other passengers like?

We have not come across any real characters as such, although the entertainment director bears an uncanny resemblance to Adrian Edmunson (and is almost as manic). The Aussies and Kiwis are always friendly, and the Americans are, well, American. We have also had the (mis) fortune of sitting with Alan and Margot (Welsh) for dinner on three occasions. He is okay, but she is such a snob. "Be careful in Dubai because there are lots of very clever fake designer goods, like Gucci watches. The one I'm wearing is a real one of course".

Did you see any pirates?

We did see a number of small craft, but as the Captain didn't tell anyone to suddenly hit the deck, we assumed that they were nothing more threatening than fishing boats.

How is the food?

We were a bit disappointed on the first few days out of Southampton, but things have definitely improved and for most evening dinners we are spoiled for choice. 

And now...competition time...

Hopefully this will work. Take a look at the attached picture and see if you can spot the little stowaway. (Hint...it's not the blob on the glass).

(PS...apologies for any sudden changes in font...I have no control over formatting using this app!)

15. Interview with a Captain

As appears to happen on many cruises these days, the Captain gave a chat show style interview in the theatre today, followed by a question and answer session from the capacity audience. Captan Bill Kent is obviously extremely experienced, has spent his entire career with the Company, lectures in various nautical themes to other staff and students at a marine college and has recently retired as a Commander in the Royal Navy Reserve where he had special responsibility for anti-pirate operations in the Gulf of Aden. In other words, he knows what he is taking about! He also comes across as extremely personable and with a very good sense of humour. Indeed, his noon day briefings are helpful and informative and always include a nugget of nautical trivia. All in all, we learned a lot and I thought many of the audience questions were very good ones.

Q. Is it true you are on the ship with one of the evening entertainers? (See my earlier post).

A. Yes.

Q. How many miles to the gallon does the ship do?

A. 80 feet.

Q. What happens to all the waste? Some is processed and, where permitted, put overboard. 

A. Some is burnt, some is taken ashore.

Q. How much does the anchor weigh?

A. Each anchor weighs 13 tons and each anchor cable weighs an additional 13 tons, so with 52 tons on the sea floor, the ship will not move even in a force 7 gale.

Q. What is your opinion of the captain of the Costa Concordia? 

A. He is an idiot.

Q. Which are the most spectacular ports to sail in to? 

A. Sydney, Vancouver, San Francisco.

Q. Is there anywhere you don't like to sail? 

A. I always like to see the Suez Canal in the rear view mirror. Sailing up the River Plate to Montevideo and Buenos Aries is always tricky.

Q. What happens when the pilots come aboard? 

A. We sit them down with a coffee and give them a magazine to read. If it wasn't for the fact that they are a legal requirement, most of them (but not all), are a waste of time.

14. Pirate territory

As I mentioned in my post yesterday, one of the requirements for the waters in which we are currently sailing is the pirate drill. Although much of what I write below is done with my tongue firmly in my cheek, I do appreciate that piracy is a threat even though extremely unlikely, and the ship, crew and guests do have to be prepared.

As well as the security staff patrolling the decks 24/7, the crew have also readied water hoses at regular intervals around the promenade deck. So it's good to know that when Blackbeard Pirate (or should I say Abdul Pirate) approaches us in his rowing boat brandishing an AK47, we can fight him off with water pistols.

Now, I am no student of guerilla warfare, but I would have thought that stealth plays an important part. So, what does the entertainment department do? Yes, they organise a late night deck party with the house band playing live through 500 amp speakers and rigging up enough flashing lights to supply the emergency services of a small village for 10 years. On the other hand, the thought of our friend Abdul having to join in the dance actions of YMCA alongside 2,000 passengers would probably make him want to run for home as soon as he could.

Anyway, it seems that when we get to our closest point to the Somali and Yemeni coast, we will have a naval escort for a short while and there is also a rumour that we will have some air cover too. However, I'm sure that most of the women on the ship would not mind at all if Jonny Depp or Errol Flynn were to swashbuckle their way aboard. Captain Pugwash might be a different matter though.

13. Aqaba, Jordan

Monday's port of call was Aqaba, in Jordan. It is the country's only seaport, is a fairly large town at the head of the Gulf of Aqaba, a tourist resort and is just a couple of miles across the bay from Eliat in Israel (which could be easily seen).

Our plan for the day was to visit the fabled lost city of Petra...a task not too difficult as the coach driver just followed the signs and found it easily enough. The drive there was about two hours across nothing but desert; we knew it was desert because there were lots of mountains, sand, oases and camels. Joking aside, it's quite stunning countryside in its own way, and for any readers who may have seen the movie "The Martian", well, it was filmed in these parts for obvious reasons as it resembles the vistas of the red planet closely.

I have to admit that I do not harbour a huge enthusiasm for ancient sites, but Petra was definitely  impressive, with a capital "I". The city is hidden away from civilisation in a valley between towering sandstone mountains and can only be approached on foot by way of an incredibly narrow natural gorge which has been carved out of the soft rock over eons. After a two mile walk, the gorge opens into a much wider, circular area and visitors are met with a view of the Treasury, a huge and ornate entrance to a cavern which had been carved out of the stone by the city's founders. Stunning indeed, especially when considering when it was built and the tools available at the time. Continuing a little further down the valley are other ancient sites, such as the monastery and the royal palace, as well as an amphitheatre to name just a few. The colours and the patterns in the sandstone swirled like a raspberry ripple icecream which ever way we looked.

As can be expected, there were one or two downsides. Because the walk down (and back) to the site is long and the days are hot, the locals offer horse and trap taxi rides along the path. This looked perilous for all concerned, as the pathway is extremely narrow, uneven and crowded. At the bottom of the path are all kinds of cheap gift stalls and more locals offering camel rides....so it all looked like a bit of a circus, and finally, there are lots of very young children selling wares such as bangles, postcards and pretty coloured rocks. On the positive side, they did not look too poor (within context), and it was the same with the animals, they appeared reasonably well looked after. Furthermore, there was an office to contact should any signs of mistreatment be observed and there was a noticeable police presence.

Claire got a chance to practice her haggling skills when she wanted to buy a headscarf. After negotiating various two for one offers she brought the price down to half the original....although at the very last moment the cost changed from dollars to dirhams, (thus being in the stallholders favour), but she stuck to her guns and was happy with her purchase even if the salesman appeared somewhat miffed.

After our visit we went to a hotel for lunch. The main meat was lamb, accompanied by many local side dishes...some such as humus we recognised, others we did not. But it was all absolutely delicious, as was the dessert which followed....a kind of apple and cinnamon bread pudding. We also found out that  Barack Obama had stayed at the hotel during his last visit to Jordan, so we reckoned that whatever was good enough for the President of the United States, was good enough for us.

We made it back to the ship with some 30 minutes to spare before sailaway, and thus ended a long, hot, tiring, but very rewarding day. What struck us, and many of our fellow passengers, was just how open and friendly our Jordanian hosts had been during our all too brief visit to their country.

So we are now at sea once again and heading southwards in the Red Sea and will not step ashore again for several days. We have been advised that we must attend a pirate drill tomorrow morning (which is inevitably leading to a number of pirate related jokes). But these things must be taken seriously and there is a 24 hour presence by the ship's security team who are patrolling, equipped with binoculars and night vision goggles on the open decks.

12. Sea day en route to Jordan

It is another day at sea as we make our way around the Saini peninsula en route to Aquaba in Jordan and where we will be docking early tomorrow morning. So, just a brief report with a couple of anecdotes.

Firstly, the entertainer about whom I spoke a couple of days ago...the Dame Edna / Lily Savage combination....is rumoured to be the Captain's girlfriend. I doubt we will ever find out for sure as it seems that we have a change of captain tomorrow anyway.

Secondly, on the promenade deck, there is a large wooden crate which is securely tied, fastened and roped off. It's been there since Southampton and it stinks to high heaven. We have been trying to work out what it might be; a supply of especially smelly French cheese maybe?...or the remains of any mutineers from the crew? Answers on a postcard please.

Trivia update. The afternoon sessions have become so popular that a trivia league has started with combined points counting until we reach Dubai. Our team is laying in a respectable 15th or so place, out of a total of some 50 teams.

Lastly, we recently chatted with a lady over lunch who has been recently widowed and is emigrating to Auatralia so as to be closer to her grown up children. She has some 17 suitcases with her and has also brought along her deceased husband's ashes. She told us that the her husband hates the sea and would never ever even contemplate going on a cruise, but that now he has no choice!

The next update will follow once we have had our day ashore in Jordan.

11. Suez Canal transit - part two

We woke at 5.30am to find that our Suez Canal transit had already commenced. The sun had not yet risen, but there was already a lot to see and much activity along the banks of the canal.

As befits a Princess, we were the first in the convoy. It is difficult to see too far behind us, but there are several large container ships following half a mile or so off our stern, as well as a small tug boat which is sailing alongside us. There was not a cloud in the sky, but as the sun crept above the eastern horizon, the air became very hazy indeed.

Over the first few miles, the right hand side of the canal is reasonably built up. There is both a busy motorway and a railway running parallel to the waterway and each train that passes blows its whistle enthusiastically. There are also huge piles of sand every half mile or so, no doubt the result of the constant dredging that is required to keep the canal navigable. On the canal itself, there are many small rowing boats with the locals casting out their fishing nets. Looking further out across the countryside, it is surprisingly green, mostly trees, but some irrigated fields.

Conversely, the left hand side of the canal is barren and mostly flat desert but interspersed with sand dunes for as far as the eye can see.

One of the most immediate and obvious features as we travel along is the amount of military security on show. Where the roads run close to the canal bank, police and army trucks keep pace with us, and every 400 yards or so is a guard tower. There are many garrisons and barracks and a helicopter has been buzzing overhead. The guards and the locals all stop to wave and whistle, cheer and take selfies as we sail serenely by....perhaps cruise ships are a bit of a rarity in the canal.

As we approached the midway point just before the expanse of the Bitter Lakes, the canal splits into two sea lanes and this area affords ample space for the northbound convoy to pass us. That convoy consists of perhaps 30 vessels with the largest container ships at the front, followed by smaller gas and oil tankers and lastly the smallest cargo ships taking up the rear positions. It takes a couple of hours for everything to glide slowly by on our port side.

Once through the Lakes, the Canal narrows and straightens once again and we are on the final stretch down to the Red Sea. At the exit to the canal is the city of Suez, a sprawl of apartment blocks, shipyards and oil refineries where th ships for tomorrow's convoy are already beginning to gather.

Our tugboat escort gives a cheery toot on its whistle and departs as the pilot boat draws alongside and collects the Egyptian authorities. A fire boat is on hand and sprays jets of water from its cannons in salute and some 8 hours after leaving Port Said our transit of the Suez Canal, one of man's engineering masterpieces, is complete.

10. Suez Canal transit - part one

We have a number of extra special highlights on our trip, and this is the first of them; a transit of the Suez Canal. At present we are at anchor in Port Said, at the entrance to the northern end of the Canal, but as the sunset was early at 5.30 pm, it's not easy to see very much, nor indeed to take any meaningful photographs.

We will remain at anchor until at least 4am, at which time the convoy should have gathered and the transit can commence. However, the actual starting time will not be known until the last moment as although passenger ships usually head the convoy, any warships requiring passage will take precedence. Therefore, we might only enter the canal proper as late as 8.30am and the transit should take between 10 and 12 hours.

Our captain has also informed us that this will be Emerald Princess's maiden Suez Canal transit, and as such, the Authorities will require more paperwork and inspections than usual in order to verify the competence of the officers and crew, and the seaworthiness of the ship....neither of which should, we hope, be in doubt! Indeed, the pilots have now come aboard and are required to conduct various sea trials of the ship. Therefore the captain has apologised in advance for any spilt cocktails during tight turns and has promised to do his best to stop the pilots treating the ship like a destroyer.

Part two will follow tomorrow once we are under way.

9. Sea day

Today is a sea day as we make our way south eastwards towards Port Said, so not a long report, just a couple of updates. There is unbroken sunshine, the temperature is 23C and we are in sight of the coast of Crete and two other small, barren Greek islands this afternoon.

Unfortunately, we have not yet won any of the trivia sessions....not really surprising as they are extremely well attended and there are some desperately fiendish questions! Still, we live in hope.

Neither have we had any visits to the roulette table, but I am sure that we will do before too long.

We have been to several of the nightly shows, which have been a bit hit and miss. The comedian was definitely a hit, but last night's singer/comedienne was more of the latter. Think Lily Savage crossed with Dame Edna Everage and you get the idea.

And finally, today's nature moment. We had a small mistle thrush perching on our balcony hitching a ride to somewhere south.

8. Sicily

Today, Wednesday, our port of call is Messina in Sicily. Mr. Corleone made us an offer we couldn't refuse and we took an excursion to Mt.Etna in the morning and the village of Taormina in the afternoon.

We had docked in Messina at 6am and upon opening th curtains, the sky was very black, indeed, the two pylons which lift the electricity cable between Sicily and the mainland was lost in mist and rain. 

However, by the time we were on the road, the sky was not quite so threatening and we were soon making our way along the coast towards the base of the volcano. As we began to climb, the vegetation changed from citrus trees and vines at the bottom, changing into deciduous trees and then firs, before the altitude and climate became too extreme to support anything than short grasses, moss and lichen. The temperature also fell from around 22C at sea level to 13C at our stopping point of 6,000 feet. The mountain itself is around 12,000 feet so we were half way up and also now above the mist and cloud which had been obscuring our view during our ascent.

At this point, we could view, and walk over the vast lava fields of black and red rock. Several mini cinder cones from previous eruptions were also close by, and volcanic rocks of all shapes and sizes littered the moonscape like mountainside. It was just a fascinating place to experience and we can add yet another volcano to our growing list of active volcanoes climbed.

Descending back down the mountain, the mist and rain again enclosed the route, indeed, visibility was no more than a few metres. Finally we got back down to sea level and thankfully the rain stopped before we made a much shorter climb up to the village of Taormina.

Taormina is perched on the mountainside, (a little bit like Santorini), but affords fabulous views over the Sicilian coast and the Straits of Messina. The very narrow Main Street is pedestrianised, and lined with any number of souvenir shops, restaurants, churches, bars and stores, all with balconies typical of the area and covered with brightly coloured flowers. Accordingly, the village is a "must see" for both locals and tourists alike, and very busy.

We stopped at one cafe to buy a light lunch and at another for a gelato before making the most of the numerous photo opportunities, but all too soon we had to make our way back to port as the ship was due to sail at 4pm.

We are now heading back into the Mediterranean on a south easterly course with a couple of sea days in prospect after our busy three days ashore.

7. Naples

I have to say that I have mixed feelings about Naples. On the one hand, the city is choked with traffic, there is litter on every street corner, much of the centre resembles a building site and there is barely a building either ancient or modern that has not been sprayed with graffiti and covered in advertising flyers. On the other hand, the view across the bay of Naples is second to none, there are some fascinating buildings and architecture, the main drag is safely pedestrianised, there are ample "you are here" tourist information maps and any city that can give the world pizza and combine chocolate, vanilla and strawberry icecream has to have something going for it.

We spent the morning and early afternoon travelling on the hop on hop off bus. The first loop took us  along the coastal suburbs and up into the hills overlooking the northern part of the Bay and then back so that we could see Sorento and Mt. Vesuvius to the south. Unfortunately, the cone of the volcano was hidden for much of the day by cloud. Or smoke. One or the other. Or both.

The second loop took us through the more central part of the city, passing numerous churches and cathedrals, statues, government buildings and the university. All nice to see, but not the sorts of places that have a particular pull for us.

Lunch consisted of a rather tasty panini and a rather expensive cappuccino, but it was enough to help recharge our batteries before starting a meander through some of the streets and making the most of the photo opportunities afforded from the harbour area across the bay.

Thus we are now safely back on board the ship after a tiring, but interesting day. As I write awaiting our sailaway, there are some very black clouds overhead and an intense rainbow is arcing over the pierhead. Thankfully however, the wind is calm and we should have a smooth journey overnight to our next port of call.

6. Civitavecchia

We transited the Bonifaco Straits between Sardinia and Corsica last last evening and it was rather picturesque seeing the coast of each island lit up. A few hours later, at 7am we were tied up alongside the pier in Civitavecchia, the gateway to Rome. However, having been to Rome more than once in the past, our plan was just to stay in the port city and have a look around.

The fact that Emerald Princess, Oceania, Norwegian Spirit, Costa Magica and Saga Sapphire were all in town meant that the population of Civitavecchia was swollen by around 5,000 people for the day. Having said that, once we had walked a distance from the drop off point, the streets were not too crowded. We explored some of the quiet back lanes, wandered around one of the churches, stopped for a coffee, browsed a few local shops and a very colourful market before eventually finding a pizzeria for a spot of lunch. Once foddered and watered, our meander took us along the esplanade where many of the locals were enjoying lunch in the very warm October sunshine. 

The heat began to take its toll on us also, so what better way to cool down than with a large Italian gelato (pistachio and lemon for me, strawberry and tiramisu for Claire), before slowly making our way back to the ship.

As I write we have just finished a refreshing swim in the pool at the back of the ship. We will shortly be making our way up to the upper decks in order to watch the sailaway (and the last remaining passengers running desperately down the dockside) as the sun sets.

5. Through the Straits of Gibralter

We continued along the coast of Portugal overnight and then early this morning (Saturday) altered to a more easterly course, passing through the Straits of Gibralter at breakfast time. Although the sky is mostly blue, it is very hazy, the seas are calm, but the visibility is only 4 miles so we were unable to see the Rock, (although the Atlas Mountains were just about visible to the south). As I write, there must be a dozen or so other ships of all shapes and sizes in view, transporting their precious cargos to ports near and far.

Our brief stints on dolphinwatch have yielded several sightings. We have also seen a number of swallows crossing the Straits on their migration southwards. It is comforting to know that we have managed to keep up with them although I daresay that our journey has been considerably less arduous and we have managed to find much more to eat in order to sustain us.

I regret to report that we have yet to win any trivia sessions, although it is still early days. Having said that, every session has been extremely well attended, with around 30 teams taking part. Not surprisingly, competition is extremely tight.

As for "firsts", the first formal night took place last night although we avoided the traditional champagne fountain having seen it several times before. But, as the air temperature has now climbed to a very acceptable 22C, we had our first swim in the pool earlier this afternoon.

(I apologise for the lack of pictures so far, but the Internet connection is rather slow and there is not too much of interest to photograph. This will undoubtedly change when we arrive at our first port of call on Monday.