50. Hong Kong

We are now on the return leg of our epic journey but have one more short stop here in Hong Kong before returning home. After an overnight flight from Perth with little sleep, the last thing we needed was a mix up with travel arrangements but sadly that is what we got. Our travel agent booked us in to the Regal Oriental Hotel, but arranged transport from the airport to the Regal Kowloon Hotel, hence when we got off the coach, we were as confused as the hotel check in desk. Anyway, they got us a taxi and a short while later we were checking in at the correct hotel. We also decided to pay a pittance for an upgrade to an executive room and inclusive breakfast....the only downside was the view...our room overlooked what remains of Kai Tek airport and it's currently a vast building site.

Although tired, we ventured out for the afternoon and had a look at the local area. We entered the Kowloon walled city park, a little oasis of peace and tranquility and as its name suggests, used to be a walled city until it was knocked down and redeveloped in the late 1990's. From there we investigated some of the district's many shops and market....the range of things living, half living, and dead that are for sale never ceases to amaze. One thing is for certain for the locals...at least you know that are buying fresh produce..so fresh in fact that it is still moving.

For our remaining day in Hong Kong we had to decide on the best way to use the time...and upon reflection, I think we did reasonably well. We had been warned about using the MRT as it can be incredible busy, but we went ahead and used it anyway and found it no worse than the London Underground. We had also been warned about finding the right exit for the sights we wanted to see, but again, we found everything to be well signposted.

So we went down to the Kowloon harbourside and caught the Star Ferry for a trip around Victoria Harbour. Billed as one of the "must do" experiences, it definitely lived up to expectations as we cruised slowly around taking in the views of the office blocks and apartment towers that dominate the waterfront. 

Once the cruise had finished we took the MRT again over to the Hong Kong side and took the tramway up to Victoria Peak. The views from the top must rank with any of the best cityscapes anywhere in the world...they were fabulous...all of Kowloon, much of Hong Kong and across to many of the nearby islands and territories. There were also more than enough shops at the Peak to satisfy the most enthusiastic of retail therapists.

We made our way back to the hotel as rush hour was in full swing and the sun beginning to set and in time for dinner. After the expense of Australia it was refreshing to know that we could have a nice four course meal with drinks and coffee for a little over GBP25 a head. 

So now we are packing our bags for the final time and will be heading to the airport for the flight back to the UK tomorrow.

49. Perth revisited - Part two

Monday turned out to be a rather fascinating day. We set off early, heading northwards along the coast with a stop at the little crayfishing port of Lancelin for coffee. There are lots of sand dunes in the area and they shine a brilliant white in the sunshine as they march their way slowly inland at the rate of 30 metres a year.

Eventually we reached the famed desert pinnacles in Nambung National Park. These limestone structures stick up out of the sand for miles around...some are just a few inches high while others rise to a height of several feet, some are rounded and some are jagged. How they were formed is unknown although processes of fossilisation and erosion certainly play their part.

A little closer to the sea was our afternoon stop...Stromatolite Lake. Stromatolites are some of the earth's oldest living organisms and are microbacterial "clumps" that grow at the edge of the salty water. Add in the fact that we spotted a small bobtail lizard and also admired the views of the bizarre looking grass trees, it was definitely a day full of nature moments.

Tuesday was our last day with Adrian and also our last day in Australia, so what better way to sign off than a beer and wine tasting tour along the Swan Valley. First stop was the Feral brewery where we all shared the tasting boards containing a total of 12 local brews ranging from light pale ales through to dark stouts. Then it was on to Sittella winery to sample a range of award winning whites, reds and roses. Purchases were made here!

Lunch was at the Homestead Brewey, an estate which also houses Sandleford winery, and then we managed a stop at the Margaret River Chocolate Company which stocks both chocolates and wine. One more stop was planned at Mash brewery but unfortunately last orders had just been called as we arrived. With hindsight, it was probably for the best!

So, our few days back in Perth had been extremely busy and it was fabulous being able to catch up with family. A very big thankyou to Adrian and Rohan for their generous hospitality, for showing us around their "neighbourhood", and for supplying the airport taxi service!

48. Perth revisited - Part one

The flight from Sydney to Perth was a very interesting one as the ground below changed from mountainous to plains and from green to brown to red and back again. It's difficult to describe just how empty and desolate the interior of Australia is.

Anyway, Saturday was a special day for two reasons, firstly because it was Claire's birthday and secondly because it was the first time that Claire had seen her brother Adrian, (who was meeting us in Perth) in over seven years.

The flight arrived early but Adrian was there and before too long we were sitting at home and catching up on lost time. We went for a stroll along the local beach and watched the sunset....ah, the simple things in life with family and friends are the best!

Next day, Sunday, was a celebratory birthday lunch, but before arriving at the restaurant we stopped at a nearby park to see a large number of resident red kangaroos grazing and lazing in the sun. Another wonderfully stereotypical Aussie scene! 

47. Sydney - Part three

It may be very expensive to eat out in Australia, but when it comes to public transport, it is incredibly cheap. In Sydney you can travel on the bus, train and ferry over an area the size of Wales for a maximum of A$15 per day. So, with this in mind we went down to the Central Station and bought some tickets for the two hour train ride up to Katoomba in the heart of the Blue Mountains. 

The region between the city and the foothills of the Mountains is pure suburbia but once the railway starts to climb, there is only a forest of trees to see. These are mainly eucalyptus, but at this time of year, the jacaranda are in full bloom and it's quite a spectacle to see these brightly purple trees standing out against a sea of green.

Once we got to our stop, we took a half hour walk down to the most scenic viewpoints....and it really is a breathtaking panorama looking out over the cliff top over the valleys and mountains of the Range stretching for miles into the distance. Photo opportunities galore!

We also had a delightful lunch in Katoomba with a very friendly sandwich shop proprietor. Upon asking for a slice of home made carrot cake to go, he gave us at least half the cake saying that as it was Friday it was only going to go stale. This provided us with extra sustenance for the train journey back to the city.

So we are now back at our hotel and packing bags once again, but this time for the last leg of our Australian adventure, back again to Perth where we will be spending a few days with Claire's brother. I suspect that it will be a visit spent mostly at wineries and microbreweries, but I shall report back again in due course!

46. Sydney - Part two

First thing in the morning we caught the bus out to Sydney's most famous beach, Bondi. The sun was shining out of a clear blue sky, but there was also a cold, gale force wind blowing straight off the ocean, so rather than being in our swimming gear we were wrapped up again the elements. To be honest, it wasn't a very pleasant place to be although on a warmer, calmer day, I am sure it is a fabulous place to relax, have a swim and enjoy the surf. Having said that, there were a number of hardy locals on their boards catching a wave or two.

So we made our way back into the city but enjoying some lovely views of the Sydney suburbs. Lunch revitalised us and we then got another hop on hop off bus around the streets, ending up at Darling Harbour. This area has been massively developed over the last few years and is now a fabulous waterfront, with lots of restaurants, swanky apartments and a lively boardwalk. Imagine Canary Wharf, but ten times better. After a brief wander, we stopped for an hour or so to visit Sydney sea world and its vast fish tanks and aquarium, seeing all kinds of sharks, rays, reef fish, dugong, and even penguins.

Moving on, our next stop was for a close up look at Sydney Harbour Bridge itself. We climbed up from street level to the pedestrian walkway and proceeded to make a double crossing of the bridge on foot, ie, there and back. The views across the harbour were picture postcard perfect...it was just a shame about the nagging cold wind.

By this time it was early evening and we made our way back down towards Opera Quays to find something to eat. The Aussie band, Crowded House, was due to play an outdoor concert at the Opera House later in the evening, so as you can imagine the whole of the harbourside was heaving. However, there are so many eateries around that we had no problem in finding a nice, but busy, establishment for dinner....very welcome after yet another very busy day!

45. Sydney-Part one

On our approach to Sydney airport we flew over the city, giving us our first glimpse of the famous harbour and all its landmarks. So, as soon as we had checked in to our hotel and sorted ourselves out, we headed down to the Sydney Tower, the tallest building in the city, eager to get our bearings and some good pictures. Unfortunately, the view of Sydney Harbour Bridge was more or less hidden by high rise office blocks so it was all a bit disappointing.

Undeterred, we continued on down to the harbourfront just in time to see one of our "old" cruise ships, the Carnival Spirit, which we sailed on back in 2002, pulling away from its berth. We watched it for a while thinking of the fabulous views the lucky passengers were getting as it began its journey out of the harbour. We also managed to get some nice pictures of both the Bridge and the Opera House, so the walk down was not totally in vain.

Next morning, Wednesday, we walked back down to the harbour and to the Circular Quays in order to catch the ferry across to the suburb of Manley. Rather than pay for a tourist excursion, this is a much more cost effective way of seeing all the landmarks from the sea. We arrived in Manley 30 minutes later and spent some time walking around and checking out some of the famous surfing beaches. Surf was definitely up, but if you ask me, it looked pretty rough and not that many people were in the sea. However, a little further around the coast was Shelly Beach, a small cove that was sheltered from the Pacific swell and it was very busy indeed. A group of schoolchildren were being taught swimming and lifesaving skills....school was never like that in my day.

By the time we caught the ferry to return to Circular Quay the clouds were thickening and darkening and just as we stepped off, thunder was booming all around. The rain looked like it had set in for the rest of the afternoon so we made the most of things and got into the dry by having a look around the Australia museum. It was nothing special but at least we didn't get wet.

By the end of the afternoon the rain lifted so we took a stroll down to a lookout point known as Mrs Mcquarie's Chair. From here we could take in great views of the Bridge and Opera House and all the harbour traffic running to and fro. We continued meandering around the Botanical Gardens, eventually ending up back at Opera Quays in time for a well deserved alfresco steak, chips and beer before heading back to the hotel and the prospect of a good night's sleep after all our walking.

44. Last day in Cairns

For our last day in Cairns we took many people's recommendation and booked an excursion on the skyrail and Kuranda scenic railway.

The first part of the trip is made over the rainforest canopy by cable car....indeed one of the longest , if not the longest cable car system in the world. On the way up we had panoramic views of Cairns whilst skimming over the impenetrable jungle below. Then, at the first changeover point, there was a mechanical problem and we were stuck for around 40 minutes while it was fixed. It was just as well that we had our feet on solid ground and that we were not dangling hundreds of feet up, and Aussies being Aussies, everyone had a good chat and put the world to rights whilst waiting.

Eventually we got going again, climbing ever higher over the canopy until we reached the village of Kuranda. We could have spent a few hours here but it is a tourist trap and there are only so many cultural centres and local art galleries that you can see in the course of a week. We had a quick look around and had some lunch before making our way towards the railway station for the journey back to Cairns.

It was at this point that we had our second problem of the day. I guess that the clue is in the words "tropical rain forest", but it started to rain, and rain, and then rain even more. Luckily we had come prepared with umbrellas but they were hardly effective against the deluge but we made it to the train rather damp, and on time.

The Kuranda Scenic Railway is another one of those great little rail journeys. It was originally built in the late 1800's against all odds because of the heat, jungle and steep terrain, for the gold prospectors. It then became of huge strategic importance during WW2 as a supply line in the Pacific theatre. Typically the rain stopped not long after we got started on the 37km ride back and this meant that we could get some great views of the mountains, ravines, bridges and waterfalls along the way.

To end the day we stood on our balcony and watched the fabulous bat flayaway at dusk. It really does have to be seen to be believed. We then had dinner at one of the many boardwalk restaurants, and for one the shoe was on the other foot as we were the ones ashore watching whilst the Sun Princess sailed serenely out of the harbour.

As for Cairns itself, there is not too much to say about the town. It is much larger than I had expected, not really high rise, but it is spreading laterally. Obviously it is the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef and the Daintree Rainforest and thrives on tourism. There is a huge Asian influence with lots of Asian cuisine and all the menus and notices are written in Cantonese, Korean and Japanese as well as English. If you took the hostels, Chinese restaurants and a tour offices out of Cairns there would not be much of a town left.

So I am now writing this note as we fly out of Cairns towards our next stop, Sydney, waving goodbye to Queensland and the turquoise waters of the Reef 30,000 feet below.

43. Cairns nature moments

After experiencing days in semi arid desert followed by a day on a coral reef, today we moved on to tropical rain forest...and a day full of nature moments it was too.

We headed northwards out of Cairns passing field after field of sugar cane until we came to our first stop, a small nature reserve. We got to see cute stuff like koalas, do even cuter stuff like hand feed the wallabies and then see the dangerous stuff like crocodiles and cassowaries. 

The next stop was a place called Mossman Gorge where we had a walk through the countryside whilst our guide pointed out various plants, trees and shrubs, some dangerous (sharp and pointy and poisonous), and some not dangerous, just pretty. We also got to see a snake which crossed the path in front of us...only the second time we've seen a snake in the wild. It was a semi dangerous one, ie, not deadly but could give a nasty bite.

Continuing even further north we eventually reached the Daintree Rainforest and Cape Tribulation (named by Captan Cook as he reckoned many of his woes began at this point). We got to have a wander along the almost deserted beach which was very picturesque indeed and as this was the place where the rainforest reached the sea and the Great Barrier Reef, there were plenty of photo opportunities. Our guide also pointed out some green ants...these could be held with care and squeezed so that a drop of a very acidic lime tasting liquid could be tasted on our tongues.

It was now time to start retracing our steps, but not before a stop on the Daintree River in the hope of spotting a crocodile or two. Unfortunately, the high tides at the moment are covering many of the crocs favourite riverbank haunts but we did mange to see a juvenile...only 18 inches or so in length.

On the way back to Cairns we passed a couple of fields which were full of wild wallabies just having a late afternoon snack. 

The last nature moment of the day occurred at dusk right in the middle of the town. An almighty screeching filled the air and thousand upon thousand of large fruit bats took to the air on their nightly hunt for food. It was quite an incredible spectacle and something the like of which we have never seen before.

42. The Great Barrier Reef

 We arrived into Cairns late last night and then it was up at 8am for our excursion out to the Great Barrier Reef. After checking in we took out seats on the catamaran for the ninety minute ride to the Marine World diving platform. It was, shall I say, a little choppy and a number of people were not looking very well at all but we took it all in our stride.

Once out on the platform we decided to treat ourselves to a helicopter flight over the reef. We didn't have to wait too long before being called and then we were several hundred feet up getting a birds eye view of the various reefs in the vicinity. There can be no better way to see the coral, where the sea is shallow and where the reef drops off into the depths. Our fight was over far too quickly but it was a one in a lifetime experience.

When back on the platform we changed into swimming gear, put on all in one lycra stinger suits, donned snorkel, mask and flippers and joined the fish swimming around the reef. There were all kinds of fish, all colours shapes and sizes...just like swimming in a tropical fish tank. I will have to try and identity some of them when I am back home, but those species that I did recognise included Maori Wrasse, parrotfish, moorish idol, various butterfly fish, orange tang, sergeant majors, damselfish and striped sweetlips.

After a fascinating hour snorkelling it was time for lunch, and then we took a few steps down into the platforms underwater viewing area where we could watch the fish easily and without getting worn out again with the snorkel gear. Last of all was a trip out in the semi-submersible. This gave a much greater range for viewing the coral close up, and seeing where it was flourishing and where it had been damaged. Shortly thereafter it was time to reboard the catamaran for the rocky journey back into Cairns. Another totally unforgettable day came to a close.

40. Emu Run Experience - Part 3 - Kings Canyon

LIt was another 3.45am start on Thursday for our drive to Kings Canyon. We were already awake and staring at the stars from the comfort of our swags, so the early hour was not too difficult. The desert air was very still and the coolness was very welcome.

After breakfast we set off for the Canyon as the plan was to be there for sunrise. A problem with the barriers at the gate of the National Park delayed us and the light on the horizon was growing brighter by the minute. At last the barrier opened and we got to the car park....however, before we could watch the dawn, we still had to negotiate heart attack hill, the 600 steps that led up to the top of the Canyon. We marched ever upward in a race against time, pausing for breath only when tiring legs and racing heartbeat demanded and finally got to the top. It was not a moment to soon as two minutes later we all watched in awe as the sun rose over the layers of red rock at the top of the Canyon. So, depending on you point of view it was either perfect timing or a very close run thing. 

We then started on our 6k walk around the rim of the Canyon...and it was only 5.30am. It was important that we got the hike finished inside four hours, before the heat became dangerously high. As we viewed the spectacular sandstone layers which were once part of the sea bed, we could see the ripples of ancient waters in the rocks, and even the fossilised remains of a limpet shell. At the same time, Amy and Connor explained about the geological history of the Canyon and showed us some of the native plants and trees and how they were used either for food, medicine or for carving into tools and implements.

The views of the Canyon itself were breathtaking and it was hard to remember that it was formed by the earth splitting apart and not by flowing water, (as a valley would be.) The golden rule was that nobody was to go less than two metres from the rim as there was more than enough evidence of dangerous overhangs and crumbling cliff walls...and as a tourist had fallen to her death just over a year ago, this rule was strictly adhered to. Beyond the Canyon was a staggering view of the outback stretching as far as the eye could see.

As 9am approached we finally began to descend back down towards where the bus was parked..and just as well as the heat was already fierce. With everyone safely accounted for, we then had lunch at a time most right minded people would be having breakfast, before starting our long journey back to Alice Springs. The general consensus of the group was that the Kings Canyon walk was the best of the  entire trip.

The ride back was interrupted by several short stops for fuel and scenic photo opportunities, and we eventually arrived back at our hotel at 5.30pm. We had not seen much wildlife over the three days apart from one kangaroo, two large goanna lizards, one giant stick insect and innumerable colourful birds. The temperature had risen from 34C on day one, to 36C on day two and 38C on day three and we had travelled in excess of 600 miles in total. However, the trip as a whole was just totally amazing with so many fabulous memories made and shared with a great bunch of intrepid adventurers.

The return to civilisation and the chance for a proper shower and some decent clothes was a welcome one. Once feeling more like proper human beings again we made the short trek into the centre of Alice in order to find something to eat. As luck would have it we bumped into the two Swedish girls from the group so we shared a meal with them for our last evening in the red centre. When bed called we could relax in the knowledge that for the first time in four days we did not have to get up at some unearthly hour in the morning.

39. Emu Run Experience - Part 2 - Kata Tjuta

Day two of our outback expedition.

Kata Tjuta...or, for those of you like me who still remember the school atlas when most of the world was still coloured a very Empire shade of red, The Olgas.

Amy and Connor, our tour guides, woke us all at 3.45am for breakfast and so that we could get out on the road in order to watch sunrise over Kata Tjuta. Similarly to the previous evening, we joined a large crowd on a special viewing area as the sun crept above the horizon just after 5am, lighting the rocks with hues of yellow/gold through to orange. It is, without doubt, one of Mother Nature's finest displays.

Once the sun was properly up, we drove right up to the rocks themselves and took one of the tracks between the giant domes, scrambling down, then climbing up so as to end up with a spectacular close up view of the rock formations and the countryside stretching for miles to the horizon from our vantage point. As the sun climbed higher into the sky, the mercury climbed even higher and we were glad of some refreshments and shade once we had made the return journey to where the bus was parked.

A long drive lay ahead for the afternoon, retracing our steps along the Lasseter Highway and then turning northward towards Kings Canyon Resort which was to be our campsite for the second of our two nights. Along the way we stopped at the side of the road for everyone to help collect some firewood ready for our camp fire later that night. Amy and Connor then dropped us off at the Resort's swimming pool and we were all able to have a refreshing swim before heading back to camp just as darkness was falling.

Dinner consisted of a typical Aussie barbie , including sausages, beef and even some marinated kangaroo. We tried a couple of generous portions of the latter and although a little "gamely", it really wasn't too bad at all. Potatoes were cooked on the campfire and no camp would be complete without a few toasted marshmallows. This one was no different!

We had wanted to sleep in the desert tonight, with a billion stars all around...yes it was that peaceful, easy feeling, so we helped ourselves to sleeping bags and swags and settled down in the open air just gazing up at the night sky. We were assured that it was safe and that there were no mosquitos around but as we were getting comfortable there was the sound of dingoes howling in the distance. Not to worry, we had to trust Amy's word.

Before the moon rose, the night sky was almost indescribable. I don't think I have ever seen quite so many stars filling the darkness and as the atmosphere is so incredibly clear, the air so still and warm, it was one of those nights that will live in the memory for a very long time. We both slept well although I could quite happily have stamped on whichever cicada it was that confused the bright moonlight for sunlight. I am also to happy to report that there were no bites, either from mozzies or dingoes, although one or two of our fellow outdoor campers said that one of the latter did come for a bit of a sniff around in the we small hours.

Although not a particularly interesting part of my narrative I am noting below the names of our fellow travellers, more for posterity than anything else!

John...60s...solo traveller from England 

Dave...60s...solo traveller from England 

Sue...20s...solo traveller from England (Navy Sue!)

Daniel...20s...solo traveller from the USA 

Lionel and Sandy...50s from Pennsylvania 

Marlene and friend...two 20s girls from Gothenburg, Sweden

Sue and friend...two 40s ladies from Toronto, Canada

Mum, Dad and two 30s sons from Holland

Two 20s girls from Munich, Germany...very quiet

A 20s couple from Germany who also kept very much to themselves

So with the two of us, 20 people..plus guides Amy and Conner from Oz, so quite an international group!

38. Emu Run Experience - Part 1 - Uluru

We had booked a three day/two night outback tour with Emu Run Expeditions. This is the story of day one. Uluru...or, for those of you like me who still remember the school atlas when most of the world was still coloured a very Empire shade of red, Ayres Rock.

The tour bus picked us up at the hotel in Alice Springs just after 6am and we set off on the long drive to Uluru. Along the way the scenery changed very little, dense bush, sparse bush, tree bush, sand bush and bush bush. The trip was interrupted by several short stops along the way, mostly at cattle stations, where refreshments could be bought and legs stretched. We passed the impressive flat topped Mesa, Mt Connor, (sometimes mistaken for Uluru, hence its nickname of Fooluru), and eventually reached the Ayres Rock Resort at Yulura which was to be our camp site for the night. Lunch consisted of hamburgers, and all of our 24 travelling companions helped with setting up the camp and preparing the meal.

Once foddered and watered, the next stop was Uluru itself. I have to say that it's a mighty impressive piece of rock, formed by the surrounding earth eroding away to leave the hard rock standing high above the surrounding countryside. (I believe the correct geological term for the Rock is an insulberg...yes Miss Beattie, Convent FCJ geography class summer 1975, I was paying attention.)

By now it was 3pm and the day was at its hottest, in the mid thirties centigrade, so after a look through the cultural centre, we opted to do the half circumnavigation walk...nobody climbs the rock these days.

Park regulations state that everyone must have at least 1.5 litres of water with them, and it was easy to see why this is enforced....the heat was brutal. Anyway, we competed the 5k and found getting up close and personal with the rock fascinating.

Everyone piled back on the bus and it was time to head up to the sunset viewing point. We joined a crowd of several hundred, sipping champagne, as the colours played on the rock, turning it from bright red, through shades of orange to a dark ochre. It really was as good a view as everyone says it is.

Back at camp, we all mucked in cooking chicken and pasta for dinner and then climbed, somewhat exhausted, into our tents for the night.

37. The Ghan

Sunday.

Sunday morning dawned grey, cold and wet in the city....well, for the locals it was cold as they were dressed in sweaters and jackets whereas we were in tee shirts.

The Ghan is undoubtedly one of the world's great train journeys running from Adelaide, across the continent, via Alice Springs, to Darwin. It's been on my bucket list for as long as I can remember, so at 10.30 am we stepped out of our taxi at the Adelaide Parklands terminal ready for the 12.15 departure to Alice. We were met on arrival with a swift and personalised check in service and then listened to some relaxing live music whilst sipping champagne and freshly squeezed orange juice as we waited for the remaining 250 or so passengers to gather.

Forty five or so minutes before the departure time we were all invited to board the train and shown the way to our cabin in carriage J. Our attendant explained the facilities, services and mealtimes and then as the train began to roll out of the station and with the rain lashing down, we sat in the Outback Explorer Lounge with our all inclusive wine, beers and coffees. The narrative that follows is a sort of running commentary as our journey begins.

We headed northwards out of the city, ironically passing through Parafield, Chidda and Salisbury stations where we had been just 24 hours earlier and the the clouds were starting to break. Not long afterwards our lunch was served in the Queen Adelaide restaurant car...a perfectly cooked fillet steak and a delicious passion fruit tart for afters. Once finished, we took after lunch coffee in the lounge. Some people seem to prefer sitting in the privacy of their cabins, but many have now joined us in the lounge and it's a very convivial atmosphere as travel plans are discussed and adventures told over endless beers and glasses of wine.

As the afternoon progressed the landscape began to change, firstly from general suburbia, to vast wheat fields and then more to bush and scrub, but interspersed with the occasional farm and small town. By mid afternoon we were following the coast of the Spencer Gulf for a short while before stopping for a short break in Port Augusta. The port is a fairly sizeable town and a crossroads and transport hub for much of Australia's north/south and east/west traffic and as I write we are waiting in sidings whilst kilometre long freight trains rumble slowly past on either side of us.

Moving onwards out of Port Augusta the scenery quickly became the quintessential bush land of Australia. The terrain is totally flat, the soil between the vegetation is rust red and in the evening sunlight with the rain clouds long since left behind there is a certain beauty about the outback. We cross the occasional dirt road and follow the occasional water pipeline and once or twice there have been people in the middle of nowhere who seem to have come out just to watch the train go by.

The train's guidebook says that the best times to spot wildlife is at dusk and dawn...and it is not wrong. We were freshening up before dinner and looking out of the window of our cabin we spotted several kangaroos, some bounding along and some just standing and watching, and also a solitary emu. Just fabulous...what could be more symbolic of this country!

After dinner in the company of a very pleasant young Aussie couple it was time to turn in as we were scheduled to have an early stop in the morning.

Monday.

Sleep was at best fitful as the train continued northwards during the night. Although the beds in the cabin were comfortable the train was noisy and rocking and rolling. Breakfast was scheduled for 6am, so it didn't help when I missed my alarm and woke with a start at ten minutes to! No matter, we dressed hurriedly and the train was stopped at Marla, a one shed and no platform town in the middle of nowheresville, still 100 miles from the Northern Territory state line. However the reason for the stop was to disembark for an hour and stretch our legs. Stepping down onto the red soil, the full moon was setting in the west and the sun was just rising in the east. Sunrise in the outback is one of those unforgettable magical moments, especially so as the sky was cloudless and the atmosphere crystal clear. 

The train staff brought out steaming hot coffee to help warm us against the early morning chill, followed by bacon and egg butties and vegemite rolls. We were told not to stray off the paths as various critters and reptiles would be stirring as the sun rose, but all we saw was a flock of bright pink coloured galas setting off for a morning feed. 

All too soon the hour had passed and it was time to reboard the train and this gave us the opportunity to get properly washed and ready for the rest of the day. Taking a hot shower on board a moving train is a new experience and definitely not one to be missed!

The train trundled on throughout the morning. There were no other stops as such although the slowing down/timing points tend to be at radio mast stations. The outback scenery varies from time to time, sometimes just grassland with few trees and at other times dense bush and shrub, but all the time the soil remains a deep red colour giving rise to the most apt description, the red centre of the country. A rough unsurfaced road follows the track....there are no vehicles, only markers designating every passing kilometre. We pass the state border in the blink of an eye and then over a bridge spanning the dried up River Finke.

Then soon after lunch we pull slowly into Alice Springs station, our most memorable journey complete. The train staff, who have been absolutely superb throughout, bid us goodbye and we take a taxi for the short ride to our hotel and a most refreshing and welcome dip in the pool.

36. Adelaide-part two. Salisbury revisited.

One of the things that I was looking forward to on our trip down under was to revisit some of the places that I could recall from my childhood times in Adelaide. Today was the day for trying to do this!

Overnight, a cool change had swept across the area (yes, I remember the forecasters using that phrase fairly often!). The temperature was a more comfortable 20C, although it was windy and there were some hefty showers about.

Today, Saturday, was also the day of the annual Christmas pageant which runs through the streets of the city. (For any family members reading, John Martins no longer arranges the pageant, indeed, John Martins no longer exists as it was knocked down in 1998 and rebuilt as a shopping plaza. However, the Royal Adelaide Hospital is still there!). It seemed like every south Australian and his dog had come up to the city for the parade, but we were heading out to Salisbury and to the area in which I lived from the age of 8 to 10 1/2.

The train journey took just 20 minutes, going past Parafield Aerodrome where I often used to visit and then stopping at Chidda station at the bottom of "my" road, Frost road. We walked up, over Cross Keys junction and there was "my" old house, number 74. It was strangely familiar, yet different. The big eucalyptus trees at the front had gone and the old porch had been revamped, but the metal fence at the front, the post box and the garage were all the same. The garden at number 76 was a lot more mature (obviously), but the frontage at number 72 looked exactly as I recall it did all those years ago. Along the side of the road, the gum trees were also a lot more mature and the foliage and occasional building meant that there was no longer a clear view across the fields to the aerodrome.

Turning the corner into Mortess street, the old scout hall was still in existence and then a few hundred metres further on was my old primary school. The main school building appeared as I remember it, but there are now more classrooms and extensions, and the playing fields are manicured rather than being dust bowls. Walking onwards towards the centre of Salisbury we passed the church where my sister had been christened (exactly as I remember it), and then we were in the town centre and soon waiting for the train to take us back into Adelaide.

Once back in the city, the pageant was ending, but all the children seemed happy with their balloons, hats and painted faces, whilst their parents looked stressed  The main shopping area of Rundle Mall was full of musicians, buskers and other street performers keeping the crowds entertained. We watched them for a while and then took the tram across the city to have a look around the Chinatown area and the Adelaide markets. This proved to be a good decision as more showers gathered. The markets were heaving, full of every kind of produce, product and cuisine from virtually every country on earth, but we could not be tempted to stay and eat.

Instead, we opted to dine a little later in the evening and brought the day of journeying down memory lane to a close with a pizza and beer.

35. Adelaide - part one

The flight from Perth to Adelaide took just over two hours, but with an additional 2.5 hour time zone change it meant that we didn't get into the city centre until mid afternoon. So, with the time spent left in the day we took a walk along that banks of the River Torrens as far as Adelaide zoo. We got a reduced entry fee as it was late in the day and as well as getting a close look at some Australian marsupials (albeit in captivity), the zoos highlight was a pair of giant pandas....I don't ever recall seeing one in real life before.

Dinner followed at a small bistro type place just off the main shopping area, Rundle Mall. Goodness me, it is expensive eating out in Australia...even strait forward things like a beefburger or a pizza are around GBP15, a fairly plain main course like chicken is GBP25...so, including a starter or dessert and a drink, it's easily GBP30-35 a head.

The forecast for today, Thursday, was for hot weather with a chance of thunderstorms. The forecasters were not wrong either as the mercury soon reached 35C and the locals reckoned it was the hottest spring day so far but without the humidity we had experienced on the ship on the voyage out, it didn't seem totally unbearable. However we thought it best not to wander around in the heat too much and after breakfast headed for the South Australia Museum on North Terrace. Along the way we passed the war memorial where crowds were beginning to gather for the Remembrance service at 11am and we stopped briefly to purchase our poppies (they make proper silk ones here, not paper and plastic).

The museum was small but well worth a look round. As well as the usual stuffed animals and geological specimens, it had many exhibits and features relating to Polynesia and the Aboriginals...things which are rarely, if ever, seen back in the UK. It also had a lot of information and original artefacts from Sir Douglas Mawson's polar expeditions. No lightweight gear or super insulated sleeping bags in those days!

In the afternoon we decided to brave the heat and caught a tram down to the seaside resort of Glenelg, just a thirty minute ride away. Again, we had a good look around, walked down to the end of the pier and with many people on the beach and in the sea, we wondered if we really should have brought our swimming things along. Too late!

As the afternoon passed, it became clear that the forecasters had done an excellent job as we could see the dark storm clouds gathering and the bolts of lightning hitting the sea just a few miles off the coast. Luckily we just about got our timing right and got back to the tram stop just as the heavens opened. The wind picked up strongly, beach umbrellas went flying, and as the tram set off, large hailstones were hammering on the roof. 

As with such storms, by the time we were back in the centre of Adelaide the rain had stopped and a rainbow was arcing across the sky so things were turning a lot more favourable, meteorologicaly speaking, for our walk through the streets to find a place for dinner. But before eating we took a lovely evening stroll along the riverbank, over the glass bridge, past the Convention Centre and for a peek inside the famed Adelaide Oval.

34. Perth, day two

Or more accurately, Fremantle. Having spent 24 hours off the water, the withdrawl symptoms were kicking in and so our morning excursion took us from Perth on a leisurely sightseeing cruise along the Swan River and back to Fremantle where we had docked the morning before. Much of the riverbank is lined with luxury apartments and fabulous properties...and judging by the landscaped gardens and gin palaces moored up alongside the private jetties and beaches, you need to be a multi millionaire to be able to afford to live in the area. We also passed by the original swan brewery and saw many black swans, the latter being the state emblem and which gave the river its name.

Fremantle itself is a pleasant little town and I daresay much quieter today than yesterday when it was playing host to two cruise ships. The centre of town is pedestrianised and as well as the usual stores found in any high street, also boasts numerous boutiques, souvenir and local craft shops, etc. no doubt catering for the passing cruise passenger trade. There are a number of older, colonial type buildings which are extremely well kept, and the recently developed boardwalk area on the seafront is very attractive, home to an array of cafes and restaurants. However, it seemed that the further away from the town centre we went, the more run down some of the buildings appeared to be.

Fremantle also has a growing reputation as a bit of a micro brewery hub with many of the bars offering ale tasting plates alongside the food menu. I resisted this temptation but did have a bottle of something delightfully named Feral Hop Hog with my lunch and which was very good indeed.

Lunch completed we shopped for a couple of small souvenirs and then caught the train back up to Perth city centre. An early night is called for as we have an early start tomorrow, catching our flight to Adelaide. With all the walking we have done today I don't think sleep will be too much of a problem!

33. Down Under at last!

The last day at sea brought about a sea change. The wind became very strong, the swell rose and the temperature plummeted from 28C down to 16C. People were wrapped up against the chill and the swimming pool transformed into a wave pool. As a final hurrah in the trivia, we tied for first place but then lost the tie break. Oh well, there is always next time.

So today, Tuesday, we berthed in Fremantle and it was time to disembark Emerald Princess. Final goodbyes had been said the night before and we had been allocated a disembarkation time of 9.15. I estimated that by the time we were called to disembark, got through immigration and customs, found our driver and got up to our hotel in Perth it would be at least midday. How wrong I was. Everything went like a dream and we were checking in to the hotel by 10.30.

Thankfully our travel agent had found a hotel that was very central, so we walked the short distance into the pedestrianised centre of the city to get our bearings and for a look around. It's a very modern city with a number of high rise buildings and a number of very familiar store brand names.

Following a much needed lunch, we alighted the free CAT bus to go up to Kings Park, a green heart of the city and larger in area than New York's Central Park. It also affords very picturesque views over the city and the Swan River. Eucalyptus trees abound, as well as many other flora including baobab trees, bottlebrush trees and the Sturt Pea. However, the first sight we saw confirmed that we could be in no other place than Australia as a pair of kookaburras were watching proceedings from the safety of a large gum tree. We also saw a number of very colourful rainbow lorikeets who were not at all shy.

Perth has remained on the cool side today with a maximum of around 22C, but with a very cold breeze. For the first time since May, I have worn a sweater....and in the Australian late spring at that!

32. The cruise ends and exploring Australia is about to begin

We are due to dock in Fremantle tomorrow at which point the cruise part of our trip to down under ends, but our tour of Australia begins.

The six weeks we have had onboard seems to have gone by in a flash and it only seems like yesterday we were boarding in Southampton. We've seen some great places, met some lovely people, and above all, enjoyed the experience. We have also met two other people who made the same journey as I did from England to Australia on the Fairstar back in the 60's.

So, at this point, a few thankyous and words of advice are due:

John and Jutte, Eric and Barb, Chris and Robyn...thanks for making up our teams for trivia, even though we didn't manage to win;

Richard and Louise...thanks for your surplus gin and tonic;

John and Myra, John and Claire, John and Jean...thanks for your company and the laughter; (lots of Johns on this ship!)

To those people to whom we give our made up names...The Batty sisters, the Ganja Man, Walking Man, Walking Lady, Noddy Holder, Mr Magoo and Cyndi Lauper....a cruise wouldn't be the same without you;

To the house band, Liquid Blue...lead singer, please practice your dance moves: lead guitarist, hope your leg gets better soon: keyboard player, please give up the occasional lead vocal: the two girl singers, don't let your skirts get any shorter or you may get arrested!

To DJ Nadia...please smile and don't look so bored even if you are;

To the Entertainment Staff...you all did a superb job;

To the stewards...efficiency epitomised;

To the waiters and bar staff...a great job by all, even though it can be tough at times when fellow passengers are rude and ungrateful. (Richie, the best waiter by far and you should show the rest how the job should be done);

Last, but not least...To third officer Susan. I know you are not nearly as stern as I have made you out to be! It must be a thankless task getting everything running smoothly ashore. You have a fabulous job seeing the world from the bridge of a cruise ship and getting paid for the privilege....who could ask for more?!

More to come once we have made it safely from Fremantle to Perth and have wifi connections in our Perth hotel!

31. Crossing the 13th parallel etc.

Given that the crossing the equator ceremony had to be postponed because of the weather, it took place yesterday today instead as we crossed the 13th parallel (south). It didn't really have the same sort of meaning, but as it is a rite of passage for many, we went along to watch the festivities anyway.

Now, I am already a shellback, having crossed the equator twice before, but Claire was a pollywog. A couple of dozen pollywogs from the ranks of both passengers and crew, (and on behalf of them all), had all charges against them read out (not least was crossing the equator several days earlier without permission). After a fair an unbiased trial under the judgement of King Neptune and his queen all pollywogs were found guilty. The sentence?...kissing the fish and then being thoroughly doused with all kinds of slops from the galley. Jolly good fun!

Elsewhere, we have had a second call out for blood donors and there was an excellent response but we still await further news of the patient.

We are now approaching the coast of Western Australia and the temperature has dropped a little. However, the wind is quite strong (evidently fairly common for this part of the world) and this is causing the ship to move a little. Nothing too bad though. We have our last formal night tonight at which we will celebrate with the champagne (read cheap sparkling wine) that we won at the trivia several nights ago.

30. Bali, Indonesia

We were at a bit of a loss to know what was the best thing to do in Bali. It's a big tourist destination, especially for the Aussies, but a day out on the beach and watersports didn't really appeal (too hot and best for the 18-30 crowd), and a visit to see the elephants didn't appeal either (they are not kept in good conditions). We wanted to try and see a bit of the countryside.

However, there was an option entitled "traditional farming". Now, when I see the word "traditional" in this context, it conjures up images of folk dancing, local art and pottery, and then a gift shop selling funny hats. However, this excursion turned out to be rather different and a very enjoyable day out indeed. It helped that the idea of traditional farming hadn't appealed to many other passengers and so a small group of just 14 climbed aboard the coach and we set off.

We travelled along the surprisingly good roads, up towards the higher country in the centre of the island, and passing the continuous shops and stalls that always line the kerbs in this part of the world until we reached our destination....a small farming village.

First of all, the villages in Bali are quite unlike any I have ever seen before. The villages are a kind of gated community with elaborately decorated walls made of black lava rock surrounding small houses contained within. The main entrance is also highly decorated and each village also contains all that is required to function, from a public hall to a little school. All of this adds to a sense of both protection and community for the inhabitants. Although Indonesia is a Moslem country, Bali is almost exclusively Hindu and so each house within the village contains a mini-temple and a shrine or six. Many of the shrines contained offerings and were decorated with black and white cloth....in reverence to the local Hindu deity, not because Newcastle United had acquired a new fan base.

We met the women of the village who were busy weaving things from little baskets to intricate flower arrangements; and of course were encouraged to have a go too. We looked at the work the local schoolchildren had produced, we saw one of the village elders show off his prized cockfighting champions (yes, it's legal here), and checked out the pigs (roast suckling pig is a specialty). Then we moved on to the rice paddies, watching the oxen being used to prepare the next field to be planted, while in other fields the rice was being planted or almost ready for harvesting. We were taken on a tour of other fields where the very fertile ground was yielding crops such as diverse as kiwi fruit, peanuts and tapioca. Further along were cocoa pods, papaya and coconuts, all of which we were invited to taste.

Eventually, it was time to shelter from the heat and to have some lunch. The women of the village appeared and served us with a coconut and tapioca starter, then green bean, spinach and chicken soup and for the main course, chicken satay, rice, coconut, lemongrass, tofu, and beans. Dessert was banana and sweet rice. It was all absolutely delicious, but what made it special was the presentation; all the plates were made of banana leaves and the rice and other ingredients were served on little individually woven palms. The amount of work involved must have been huge and it was just a wonderful treat to eat outside surrounded by flowers and butterflies.  We were really struck by just how gentle and friendly the local people are towards their guests...the sort of welcome and hospitality that would make us want to return one day.

On our return to the port we stopped by one of the largest temples on the island, a very tranquil site, surrounded by a moat of lotus flowers, but as the Bali traffic jams are legendary, we did not have too much time available for a good look around.

The last tender back to the ship from the shore was due to leave at 5pm and we were still stuck in traffic at 5.30 pm. We knew that the ship had to wait for us, but we still knew what was coming.

We joined the long line of latecomers as the sun was setting. In the distance, third officer Susan started to walk along the pier, inspecting all the tender time transgressors. We kept our gaze fixed firmly ahead hoping that she would not make eye contact but wondering if we would be sent for a night in the brig or to have to write 500 lines "I must not be late for the last tender". Thankfully she strode past but I pity any poor souls who were still browsing in the terminal's souvenir store.

By this time it was almost dark, and a swell was developing between the shore and the ship which was anchored some 40 minutes away. The crashing waves and having to avoid the number of fast and small watercraft which were still buzzing around the bay made for a rather sporting journey back to the ship! It had been a great day and far more interesting and fun that we had ever imagined.

29. Gratuities and (minor) grumbles

Of course, life is never perfect and this cruise is no exception. However, we have had a few issues which have caused frustration and Princess do not seem to have been particularly anxious to put things right. It's been the only blot on an otherwise very enjoyable trip. The first thing concerns gratuities and when I return home I might well post the issue that I have described below onto Cruise Critic and see what sort of feedback transpires.

***

I know that gratuities can often be a minefield and for the nations of the world where tipping is not second nature, Princess (along with most other cruise lines), have a system whereby, if we wish, a daily gratuity amount is automatically deducted from our accounts "for our convenience". We are always happy to have this applied to our account as we always think it is helpful in the "who do we pay and how much do we pay" dilemma. We also think that it is only fair that the back room staff in the laundry and the kitchen etc. receive a share of the tips as well as the front line staff like the waiters and stewards. Of course, we are free to give an additional amount to anyone should we want to.

Now, three days before our steward was to leave the ship, he left a note in our stateroom saying goodbye and wishing us well for the future. A day later, he left a second note, saying something similar, but placing a couple of loose coins on the note. Then on the last day, he left a note saying goodbye and should we like to leave a tip (the operative word in block capitals and underlined) to find him around or to give him a call. 

My questions therefore are as follows. Firstly, is it in order, or indeed common practice for a steward to be so blatant as to virtually ask for a tip? 

Secondly, do the stewards know whether or not a guest has decided to opt in or out of paying the daily gratuity? If so, what right does he/she to know what transactions are being passed over a guests account?

***

As well as the great Indian Visa debate, there was also a mix up with Singapore immigration. Many passengers had their passports stamped with the incorrect date, but there was no on board announcement advising how to get this resolved. We heard by word of mouth, but fortunately we were not affected. Additionally, Singapore landing cards were included in the wrong passports so that when some people got to the immigration desk, the passport name did not match the landing card name. At the time of writing I am not sure how this was resolved.

We have also been advised that the visa fee for landing in Bali is to be waived. Supposedly, this has been initiated by the Indonesian authorities, although I wonder if some pressure was put on them by Princess in order to part compensate for the costs of obtaining the Indian visa. Pure speculation of course.

We have also had a problem with Claire's cruise card. In Cochin it was not recognised on the security system for checking passengers on and off the ship. We were told to get a new card, but the same thing happened at the next port. Again, another new card was issued, assured all was okay, but it was rejected at the next port, Phuket. We went through the same process yet again...and in Singapore , surprise, surprise, it was rejected. So we have now just given up and have to go though a manual process rather than an automatic one. It's no biggie, but just unnecessary hassle.

We've noticed a few more small examples of cost cutting. No longer is there steak on the "available every night" evening menu. It's been replaced by a beefburger. Very disappointing. By common consent, the standard of the entertainment has been decidedly average.

But these minor things aside, we have no major complaints and the staff, as always, are polite and courteous. Likewise, we have no complaints about the range of food available and the evening dinner menus.

I have an update to the mysterious crate mentioned in my post number 12. It has generated much speculation amongst our fellow passengers, much of it along the same lines as our thoughts. However, the truth is that it contains engine parts as there is no room left in the engineering stores. So, nothing too exciting after all, although for the espionage fans amongst us, "engine parts" is pretty much a catch all for anything at all!

28. Crossing the equator etc.

Tuesday November 2nd, it's 4.35 pm and we are about to cross the equator. Unfortunately, it's all been a bit of an anticlimax as the weather is overcast, there are heavy rain showers around mixed in with drizzle, so the "crossing the line" ceremonies have all been cancelled. I don't really understand why as people were going to get wet anyway! I'm sure King Neptune is calling us a bunch of wimps...but there you go, King Elf and Safety rules everything these days and has called rank.

Still, the ship's whistle sounded as we sailed over from the northern hemisphere to the southern....the picture attached captured the scene at the time.

In other news, there was yet another medical emergency yesterday afternoon. A call went out on the PA for any registered type O blood donors on board who were willing to donate. Evidently there was a very good response but thus far we have no news of why the call went out in the first place, but condition of the patient is described as "much improved and stable".

On the wildlife front, the flying fish appear to have given way to countless jellyfish. I can also confirm a sighting of a sea snake.